JEWELRY MAKING


Jewelry making procedures have advanced more throughout the past three decades than any other time in history.  When we started more than 50 years ago, our artisans made jewelry by wax carving. Miniature sculptures where carved by our designers in preparation for lost wax casting. Models were sculpted and imbedded in plaster. We then burned the models from the plaster to create an impression. By alloying precious metals, we created the color and karat desired, melt them by torch and thrown into the cavity with a manually wound centrifuge, Once the metal was prepared we shaped and formed it in the jewelry fabrication process. Using files, abrasives and fundamental grinding tools, our artisans ground and finished the resulting castings to prepare them for soldering and welding.

For some designers, this is done with a detailed color painting, while others create a simple, basic sketch to use as a guideline. Computers have changed every industry, and a clear example of this is the technology being used in CAD jewelry design. As jewelers who has designed and created jewelry for over 50 years, we can ensure the computer did not replace the jeweler. It simply made it possible for artisans to express themselves with more clarity than ever before, but will never replace the need for skilled hands who cast, polish, solder, weld the metals, or the stone setters. These work still requires artistic vision, paired with the same knowledge of materials and understanding of jewelry fabrication procedures where only the tools have improved during the time.

Many of today’s artisans will create a computer rendering through CAD jewelry design, and some simply work with a visual image in their mind, entering in a world of computer design and new generation machinery where the sculptors whom once worked in wax, are now using keystrokes and a mouse to transform ideas into works of art.  Through CAD jewelry design, skilled artisans create original models in a virtual world. Once completed, their works are milled from wax, grown in resin with high tech equipment driven by complex software, or load the file in a CNC machine to replicate it, for example, in a last generation 5-axis CNC machine.



Mold Making / Wax Carving

In mold making, we begins the process by molding an original piece using a soft material —typically wax, clay, or plaster. Once this is done, the original art piece is then ready to be molded. The art piece, or model, is placed into a flexible material that will shape the mold, which is usually enveloped by a tough exterior. When the molds are separated, an impression of the original art piece remains.

From there, a material—such as clay—is poured into the impression, creating an exact copy of the original art piece. A thin, interior layer of the second model is carefully removed, which provides a path for the metals to fill the mold. The thickness of the final art piece will be determined by the size of the gap between these two molds.

After closing the molds, hot wax is then poured in between the molds, resulting in a clay figure that is completely covered in wax. A small system of vents and paths that are carved by the artist allows for the hot wax to leave the mold after settling. This allows for the gold or metallic material to flow through the mold.

Until recent years and the advance of CAD jewelry design and 3D printers, most fine jewelry was carved from wax. Using files, blades, to carve and shave wax  and transform a simple block of wax into a exact model of the fine jewelry to be created, The rough cast item will undergo jewelry polishing and the various stages of jewelry fabrication before the final stone setting


Precision CNC Molds

For high volume or dimension-specific orders, jewelry manufacturers often use the Computer-Aided Design (CAD) process, which is when a designer creates a jewelry design on computer software along with specifications and exact dimensions for the piece.

Once the initial design work is made, a prototype model is created. Rather than sculpting the piece individually, this prototype may be created using a 3D printer that can go directly to casting.

For CAD designs, molds go into computer numeric control (CNC) machines for production, similar to other mass produced metal goods. Appropriately referred to as CNC molds, these tools are durable and may produce a wide range of custom jewelry.

The CNC molds also adhere to strict design specifications. Additionally, the CAD process allows versatility and freedom to edit designs without compromising materials before production.

                                               Jewelry Casting

 Silver, Gold and platinum casting procedures differ greatly. Platinum melts at such extreme temperatures that specialized skills, equipment and plaster investments are needed. Gold casting have a wide range of karats and colors, the alloy combinations dictate that each has temperature cycles and processes that are unique to the metal.

Most jewelry casting is done through the lost wax process, whereby models created through wax carving, growing, or printing are encased in a plaster- like medium known as investment. The investment is heated to extreme temperatures to incinerate the material, creating an impression of the desired form. The intricate cavity is then filled by molten precious metal.

Burn Out Cycle:
Wax models or resin type materials are connected to one another on a tree-like form configuration. The alignment of the models is arranged to allow gold or platinum to flow through the “tree” with minimum turbulence or resistance. The “tree” is then suspended inside a metal flask and filled with plaster slurry. Once filled, air bubbles and pockets are. After hardening and curing, flasks containing invested models are placed in specialized ovens, where the wax is incinerated.

Centrifugal Jewelry Casting:
Centrifugal jewelry casting uses the force of a centrifuge to create the necessary inertia to throw gold into the hollow cavity left behind. After burn out, the flask is placed in a cradle on a swing arm in which gold or platinum will be melted. When the precious metal is at critical temperature, the centrifuge is released and metal is slung from the crucible at high velocity.

Vacuum Casting Jewelry:
The principal behind vacuum casting is very similar to the centrifugal casting filling the cavities before cooling. The equipment used for vacuum casting requires the flask be loaded in a sleeve within a chamber to enable a forcible vacuum to inhale molten metal into the investment.

Continuous Casting (seamless tubing making): (Need Picture of Gold/silver tube..)
In the most basic terms, we start our manufacturing process  by making seamless tubing through a combination of hot extrusion (pushing a billet of metal through an orifice to produce the tube) and cold drawing (pulling that tube through draw plates fitted with tooling and dies to achieve various ring diameters). This process works well, and when we reviewed our procedures, we found it to be very effective and greatly improved tarnish resistance over the soldered type, with no joint. a symmetrical microstructure, uniform hardness, and high dimensional accuracy, these rings are a much stronger alternative.

Jewelry Soldering / Welding

Using a torch and skilled hands, jewelers and model makers solder miniature pieces of gold and platinum together with accuracy. The skills needed to freehand support a miniature wire, while heating it to the molten point without melting or damaging other areas, the jeweler controls the heat with can solder a seam that is strong and undetectable.
Other side, jewelry welding does not involve the use of solders. Metal of equal property is fused to itself with extreme temperature applied to an acute area. Until the development of lasers to fabricate new product and perform laser jewelry repair. Most complicated jewels will be both soldered and welded. With the fabrication completed, the item moves to stone setting and polishing.

Rico talk about a fision welding or similar, can explain here?

Stone Setting


Is a challenge of securing diamonds and gemstones in the least invasive way. The objective when stone setting is to use the minimum amount of material necessary to secure the gem, in top of that the setter must provide maximum durability while the gemstone jewelry is being worn. We can choose from many methods of stone setting, each intended to present gemstones in a different manner. Some stone setting is intended to raise and expose a single stone, while others types offer clusters of gems to be viewed as a group, in other cases the setting work is intended to protect a fragile gem from excessive wear.

Here are a few examples of the types of stone setting used in modern jewelry:

Prong Setting:
Prong setting is familiar to almost everyone due to its used in engagement rings, using a wide range of prongs designs to fit every shape and size gem in existence; the most typical being the traditional four or six prong configurations with different styles, from trellis designs to baskets. The elevation of prong-set stones allows light to enter from the top and sides, and it is unquestionably the most popular method of stone setting for individual featured gems, trying to faceted stones in the proudest possible way.

Bead Setting:
Bead setting is primarily used to display sequences of small diamonds in strands or continuous rows. The emergence of CAD jewelry design has made it possible to create less labor-intensive styles. With miniature beads created by computer automated design it is now possible to create fins bead set jewelry. new technology enables designers to position precision bead can now be done in half the time.

Pave Setting:
In pave setting, diamonds are set in fields rather than rows or strands, setting diamonds typically cover a broad expanse and share beads to create a diamond encrusted appearance.

Bezel Setting:
Bezel set stones are seated in thin strips of precious metal, formed to the shape and size of a stone. Once seated, gems and semiprecious stones are placed inside. The metal strip is then trimmed to a depth that marginally overlaps the gem. Using smooth metal tools, artisans burnish the metal by rubbing it with force to roll it over the edge of stones in Channel Setting


hannel Setting:
Channel setting is achieved when a jeweler uses a rotary cutter to create a seat in precious metal that is grooved to the size of a gem. Once the setting wall is prepared, the stone is carefully leveled into its seat. Using a precision handheld impact hammer, precious metal is carefully chased over girdle to secure the stone at the desired angle.

Flush Setting:
It enables designers to create jewelry featuring stones that lie flush in the surrounding metal. This can be done with a single large stone seated in a broad, level surface; however, this form of stone setting is most often used to set smaller stones to create a spangled look.

Jewelry Polishing

Polishing begins with rough precious metal forms created during jewelry casting, using a wide array of machines and hand held tools to remove uneven or rustic surfaces from gold, platinum or silver, using wheels and bits charged with abrasive compounds the polishers shape and contour surfaces and the metal will begin to take on a shine Once the desired polish is achieved, various textures and finishes can be applied to specified surfaces of jewelry to add character or enhance the design.
When all of the jewelry polishing is complete, and all surfaces have been thoroughly cleaned, a jeweler can apply any chemical finishes needed such as rhodium plating before the polishing team brings out the shine and lustrous finishing.

Rhodium Plating (Need Picture)

Until the resurgence of white gold as the metal of choice, most consumers had little knowledge of rhodium plating or its use in fine jewelry. With the increased popularity of white gold, consumers are realizing that the pure chrome white color that appears on a new item in the jewelers showcase shifts over time. It is a bit difficult to relate to until you realize that white gold is derived from pure yellow gold. White gold is created by alloying pure, yellow 24kt gold with other white metals.

It is rhodium plating that lends the shimmering silver tone to metal. When created, white gold jewelry has a faint tint of yellow. To compensate for this, it is coated with rhodium plating. Since rhodium is a rare precious metal that is extremely hard and corrosion resistant, it holds a brilliant polish and provides a durable finish on fine jewelry.


CNC seamless tube ring making:

To manufacture wedding rings from the extruded tube, we were using the standard method of cutting identical size rings (blank rings) with an automatic saw from the end of the tube and shaping them with CNC lathes, previously loaded with the CAD design to replicate, this is the last technology in rings manufacture, have so many advantages, not only because mixed with the use of  seamless tube to produce the rings, with all the advantages it have, CNC machine allows a level of quality and accuracy that is not possible with the manual manufacturing process, provides a high degree of repeatability and positional accuracy, allows users to manufacture many different items, materials and products with the highest level of efficiency, saving time and maximize the production output to ensure the best delivery time to our customers. More comments here?

Jewelry Inspection

The purpose of inspection process is to verify that all of the finished products are free from any defects, not only in the final stage of production and before delivery, must control de quality on each process, from raw material, through casting and polish, ending in packaging due to detect production anomalies on the right stage to make possible find the suitable solution on time.


Guangzhou Lord of the Rings Jewellery Co.Ltd.